When you hold a skincare product in your hands, there is always an INCI list ( International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients; Ingredient List) on the label. Thanks to this system, ingredients are listed the same way on packaging all over the world. But what does this order actually say? Time to shed some light on that.
The basic rules in a row
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Above 1%: ingredients are listed in descending order.
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Under 1%: ingredients may be listed in any order (except dyes).
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Leave-on products (such as creams and serums): all ingredients starting at 0.001% must be listed.
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Rinse-off products (such as cleaners and shampoos): from 0.01%.
👉 So the list seems transparent, but there is a lot of room for interpretation – and for marketing.
Marketing vs. reality
Below 1%, a brand is allowed to put ingredients wherever it wants. This means that a “hero ingredient” (for example, an exotic herb or a trendy extract) is sometimes present in minuscule amounts, but is still prominently listed.
That’s allowed – as long as it meets the listing requirements. And that is often enough for an eye-catching claim like:
✨ “With [x] extract”
✨ “Enriched with [y]”
Whether that ingredient actually makes a difference to your skin? That is the question.
Ingredients that you often encounter
A few examples you’ve probably come across on an INCI list:
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Aqua; Usually number 1 on the list. Has no active effect on the skin, but serves mainly as a filler.
- Phenoxyethanol; A widely used preservative (substitute for parabens) that is absolutely absent from our products because of its toxic and hormone-disrupting effects.
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Paraffinum Liquidum; Also known as mineral oil, petroleum jelly or liquid paraffin. Seals the skin, disrupts the microbiome and hinders absorption of active ingredients.
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Alcohol Denat; A denatured (often synthetic) alcohol that can dry out or irritate the skin.
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PEGs; Synthetic emulsifiers or solvents, which can be stressful to the skin barrier.
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Microplastics; Are often added as cheap fillers or for a smooth texture (think of ingredients like polyethylene, acrylates copolymer or polyquaternium). These substances are not biodegradable, contribute to environmental pollution and can have a damaging effect on the skin barrier.
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SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate); A strong foaming cleanser often found in shampoos, toothpaste and shower gel. It cleans the skin or scalp thoroughly, but can damage the skin barrier, dry out and cause irritation – especially in sensitive skin types.
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Perfume; A collective term for everything from synthetic fragrances to essential oils.
What does this mean to you?
Deciphering an INCI list can sometimes be quite complicated. And while transparency is important, the order does not always tell you everything about the effect or quantity of an ingredient.
At Skin District, we like to help you see through the marketing and discover which products really do something for your skin.
👉 Feel free to bring your products to the store or salon: we will look at them with you.
👉 Or schedule a free skin consultation – then we will translate the INCI list into understandable language and practical tips.
That way, you can be sure that what’s on the label really suits your skin needs.